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Chronic Vomiting in Cats

Tue, 05 May 2026 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, DVM

Chronic vomiting is defined as vomiting twice or more monthly. It is very common and frequently incorrectly attributed to eating too fast, nervous stomach, just hairballs or “just a puker.” Most commonly, it is due to small intestinal disease. Vomiting of whole dry food is not due to eating too fast. Cats typically just swallow without chewing 80% of dry food consumed. Eating grass doesn’t cause vomiting. They eat it because they like it.

Regarding hairballs, cats have an apparent lack of organized interdigestive motility. In dogs and people, organized contractions effectively eliminate non-digestible contents larger than 1 to 2 mm in diameter. Absence of organized contractions in cats can prevent passage of hair material through the pyloris (outflow opening from the stomach) and promote retention and ultimately, formation of a hairball. Chronic small intestinal disease causes reduced small intestinal motility which then causes frequent vomiting in short-haired cats. Originally domestic cats had short hair and so only in long-haired cats will the elimination of extra hair be too much for a healthy long-haired cat’s digestive system. Overgrooming can cause an excessive amount of hair in the digestive tract leading to hairball vomiting whether the cat is short-haired or long-haired. Overgrooming can be caused by feeling itchy, stress or locations of pain. The use of petroleum-based hairball prevention products is not recommended as it is not “due to a grease deficiency.” If vomiting hair balls is less than once every 2 weeks, then brushing, clipping the hair short in a long-haired cat and adding water to canned food can be tried. If vomiting more than every 2 weeks, then it is unlikely to be caused by hairballs and time to evaluate for underlying cause. Also, if vomiting food greater than 12 hours after eating, then it is likely due to chronic small intestinal disease which reduces small intestinal motility resulting in delayed stomach emptying. If vomiting is chronic and otherwise appetite is good and there has been no weight loss, then can do a 1 month dietary trial with a novel protein diet or hydrolyzed protein diet to check for dietary intolerance, but this is an uncommon cause for vomiting. In kittens a stool evaluation for parasites can be helpful and a trial of worming medication can be given as parasites are not always detected on fecal testing.

Evaluation for the cause of chronic vomiting follows a standard approach. First radiographs or x-rays are always indicated as the test is very sensitive and specific for detecting an obstruction. Abdominal ultrasound is a very useful complement to radiographs as structural changes can be detected including checking for thickening of the intestinal wall and possible enlargements of the mesenteric lymph node that receives lymphatic drainage from the small intestine. If the small intestinal wall is thickened then 96% chance this is either small intestinal inflammatory disease or lymphoma, a cancer. If the mesenteric lymph node is enlarged the ultrasound can be used to guide a needle into the lymph node and get an aspirate sample. This can be a very non-invasive approach to getting information to make treatment decisions.

Chronic vomiting is very common in cats, affecting 1 out of 5 cats over 10 years of age. It is not normal and 99% of time is due to a problem at the small intestine. Absolute diagnosis of a small intestinal problem necessitates biopsies at the correct location and the full thickness of the small intestinal wall. Generally, though an appropriate diagnosis to proceed with therapy can be obtained by abdominal ultrasound and an ultrasound-guided aspirate of the lymph node associated with the small intestine. With either inflammatory small intestinal disease or small cell lymphoma treatment is generally very effective and both are associated with a good prognosis.

Fleas: Get the problem under control before it gets out of control

Tue, 14 Apr 2026 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, DVM

Last summer the flea problem was one of the worst it has been. Unfortunately, this summer may be worse. The most common flea affecting dogs and cats in North America is the cat flea. Cat fleas are voracious blood-feeders, consuming up to 15 times their body weight daily. Female fleas use that blood to produce up to twice their body weight in eggs daily. It doesn’t take long for a flea infestation to get out of control. These fleas can cause allergic skin disease, anemia through blood-feeding, transmit tapeworms and bacterial illnesses. It is therefore important to control these harmful parasites.

It takes several weeks to eliminate a flea infestation since the immature stages are in the house or outdoors. Once fleas jump on a dog or cat, they will feed, mate and female fleas will begin laying eggs within 24 hours. The in-house and potentially outdoor premises rapidly become infested with eggs, larvae, pupae and emerging adult fleas.

Besides the pet, the environment may also need to be treated to more rapidly control the population. If necessary, an exterminator can be used to treat the home, garage, car and yard environments for fleas. Flea burden can be reduced by discarding and replacing pet bedding, washing bedding and throw rugs regularly, vacuuming daily, reducing humidity within the home, eliminating excessive carpeting; removing leaves and brush from the yard and keeping grass cut short. While treating the environment initially is important to get the population under control, it is not necessarily a once and done as the flea pupae in the environment are resistant to freezing, drying and insecticides and can lie dormant for many months. Besides cats and dogs, the cat flea likes opossums and racoons and so there is going to be continued re-introduction of flea eggs into the environment by wandering cats and opossums and racoons. The yard is best treated with Permethrin or Bifenthrin spray which is a man-made version of Pyrethrin which comes from chrysanthemum flowers. Recommend treating the yard for fleas once a week for 4 weeks and then once a month to kill emerging larvae and adults from pupae as spraying will not kill the eggs or pupae. (Pyrethrins can be toxic especially for cats so pets must be kept off the sprayed yard until it is dry.)

A less concentrated Pyrethrin (0.1%) can be used on dogs and cats and inside the house. Flea eggs, larvae and pupae tend to be most prevalent on pet sleeping areas and nearby cracks and crevices and also along and behind baseboards, moldings, window and door frames. Washing bedding can also be helpful. Generally, treating the indoor environment at least 2 times a week to start with is needed.

Systemic flea control is very effective for dogs and cats and convenient but needs to be used before the flea population has exploded. By itself, it will not put out the fire. Also, it is best to not stopped in the winter because that can make it more difficult to gain the upper hand in spring and summer when populations are increasing. Systemic flea control is a prescription drug that is either given by mouth or placed on the skin where it is absorbed into the body. It acts by killing the flea or tick when it has a blood meal. Since the systemic flea control kills the flea after having a blood meal, it is not preventing flea saliva from being injected during feeding. This is what causes problems for a flea allergic dog or cat. It is just as if you’re allergic to poison oak, it doesn’t matter if you rub only a little bit on your skin, you’re going to be itchy. It is the same with the bite of even 1 to 2 fleas in a flea allergic dog or cat. For these pets, you need to prevent them from getting any flea bites at all. This is done by initially using a topical insecticide if needed and effectively eliminating the flea population in the environment. Best and most convenient is systemic flea control before the problem appears to prevent a flea population from developing.

As nice as the weather is here in Spring, Summer and Fall, the fleas like it also. Even in the winter, while the population may decline outdoors, fleas do fine indoors. Flea prevention has become very easy and convenient but putting out the fire is not.

Holiday Pet Hazards

Wed, 29 Oct 2025 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Holiday time presents some situations which can be hazardous to your pet’s health. A little planning and taking extra precautions will keep the holidays a happy time for everyone.

Holiday food favorites can be dangerous for dogs. Watch out for “counter surfing” with food left on counters and serving areas. Fats, gravies and poultry skin can lead to gastrointestinal upset or worse pancreatitis. This inflammatory condition of the pancreas often requires hospitalized care and can be fatal. Keep trash where your pet cannot get to it. Food scraps and packaging can be delectable for your pet. Moldy food in the trash may contain tremorgenic mycotoxins that can cause muscle tremors and difficulty walking.

Alcoholic drinks especially eggnog is tempting along with rum cake. Cats are sensitive to ethanol and are attracted to mixed drinks containing milk, cream or ice cream. And unbaked bread dough undergoes fermentation in the stomach to produce ethanol and stomach distension.

Chocolate poisoning is a common problem with early symptoms being anxiety, agitation or vomiting. In general the darker the chocolate or more bitter, it is the more toxic – unsweetened baking chocolate is the worst. White chocolate is negligible in toxicity. ½ to 1 ounce of baking chocolate can be fatal for a toy breed while 4 to 8 ounces can be toxic for a Labrador. Don’t keep wrapped boxes of chocolate under the tree – they will be opened by your dog.

If you have to share food, give canned pumpkin or raw or cooked sweet potato, carrots or green beans without added oils. Grapes, raisins and currants are toxic for some dogs. They can cause kidney failure and how this happens is unknown. Any amount can be dangerous.

Be careful with peanut butter as it is high in fat and some peanut butters now have a natural sweetener called Xylitol added. Xylitol, in dogs and rabbits only, causes a release of an increased amount of insulin in the body which results in dangerously low blood sugar levels. It can also cause liver failure. Most products containing Xylitol do not list the concentration in the product because it is not toxic to people. Therefore, it is impossible to predict if a product has a toxic amount or not. Only 2 ounces of peanut spread containing Xylitol can be toxic for a 25 pound dog. Xylitol is also used in sugar-free gum, baked goods (including protein bars) and candies often labeled as “sweetened naturally” or “naturally sweetened.”

Onions and garlic can also be toxic, especially for cats. Of most concern is exposure to concentrated sources in powders, salts and minced products. Garlic is more toxic than onion. The toxic effect of most concern especially in cats is damage to red blood cells resulting in anemia.

It doesn’t take much for a climbing cat or excited dog to knock the Christmas tree over, so make sure it is secured. A tight fitting tree skirt can prevent your pet from drinking the tree’s water. Christmas preservative in the water typically doesn’t cause problems. Ingestion of Christmas tree needles by cats can cause vomiting and decreased appetite. Foil around the base, double-sided cellophane tape or citrus-scented spray at the tree base will discourage cats from climbing. Avoid ornaments made from food such as salt/dough ornaments and popcorn strings. Watch for and remove any broken ornaments. Be careful with holiday lights as they are usually not insulated well and so are easily chewed through. Burn marks at the lips or tongue or respiratory distress are signs of electrocution. Tinsel and curling ribbon should be avoided completely especially with cats.

Poinsettias, Christmas Cactus, Mistletoe, Holly and Amaryllis ingestion can cause mild gastrointestinal upset. Lilies are the big problem for cats. Even biting a leaf or ingestion of the pollen can be toxic. Initial symptoms typically are vomiting followed by kidney failure 24 to 72 hours after ingestion. Delaying treatment beyond 18 hours usually results in death.

Potpourri liquid or scented oils simmered in a pot are particularly attractive to cats and are poisonous due to the essential oils and cationic detergents they contain.

For cats the silica gel packs that come with many of the presents are fun to bat around. Eating the contents of the packs is typically not a problem but eating an intact packet could cause an obstruction. While your medications are safely stored away, house guests may leave theirs in plastic bags in open suitcases. More common now is marijuana in plastic bags. If there is marijuana in the house, your dog will find it. No drug sniffing training needed here.

Lastly, one that you may be unfamiliar with is snow globes. They can contain ethylene glycol (antifreeze). If you drop and break one, the liquid could be quickly licked up because it tastes sweet. Ethylene glycol ingestion can cause kidney failure. Proceed immediately to your veterinarian if this occurs.

For some cats and dogs, the bustle of the holiday season with visitors and increased household activity can be stressful. Providing a comfortable, quiet place to retreat to can help and also prevent unnoticed escapes out the door. If your pet is particularly upset by houseguests, then your veterinarian can help with possible solutions.

If you suspect that your pet has been exposed to a “holiday hazard”, call your local veterinarian immediately or call Pet Poison Helpline at 855-213-6680 or ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 (fee for both). Early treatment can prevent a serious or fatal condition.

Obesity in Dogs

Wed, 15 Oct 2025 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Obesity is an important problem with 60% of dogs in the US being overweight. With so many dogs being overweight pet owners frequently have difficulty identifying what is a normal weight. With a dog of normal weight, you can easily feel the ribs when running your hands down the sides of the chest. There can be a thin layer of fat over the ribs. When looking down from above, there should be a visible waist and looking from the side a tuck or upward slope at the abdomen. There should be minimal fat, no “love handles” at the sides of the lower back.

A number of health problems can occur or be made worse with obesity. Obesity can compromise a dog’s ability to breathe. The fat forms a constricting band around the chest making it harder to breathe and take deep breaths. Fat within the abdomen pushes the diaphragm forward, again restricting lung capacity. The restriction of breathing also restricts the dissipation of heat from the body and the added insulation further promotes overheating.

Being overweight can make arthritis and back problems worse by placing additional stress on the joints and creating more pain. This can be a downward spiral by leading to decreased mobility and in turn, greater obesity. With both problems, be it a chronic cough from a respiratory disease or pain from chronic arthritis can sometime be managed well with weight loss alone.

Treatment for obesity involves modifying feeding practices, increasing exercise and decreasing caloric intake. There are diseases that can lead to an increased risk for obesity. Your veterinarian should examine and test for these as appropriate before recommending dietary changes. Generally one can start with feeding 75% of the current caloric intake. Dogs can safely lose 1 to 2 % of body weight per week. Prescription weight loss diets are much lower in caloric concentration than “lite” or “less active” diets which are meant to prevent weight gain and not cause weight loss. Increasing exercise can help but dietary changes are more important in promoting weight loss. Restricting feeding to meals rather than leaving food out or frequently offering food encourages snacking which interferes with weight loss.

Treats need to be stopped or if you must, then pieces of apple, raw carrot or green beans. For many dogs “treats” can be their usual food given in a small amount by hand since this action reinforces them being an important family member which in itself is the real “treat.”

In helping your dog lose weight it is important to determine what their ideal weight should be. A general objective determination can be done based on your dog’s body condition score (BCS). Your veterinarian can determine where your dog is on a 9 point scale and can use this to determine how much weight is to be lost. A BCS of 4 to 5 is normal and every 1 point above this means they need to lose 10 to 15% of current body weight. If your dog has a BCS of 6, they need to lose 10 to 15% of their body weight and if they have a BCS of 9, they need to lose 40 to 60% of their body weight.

Once an ideal weight is achieved, your veterinarian can help you determine how much to feed to maintain that weight. For dogs that really like to eat, it can be helpful to remain on the prescription weight loss diet so they are satiated with the amount fed. Certainly, life style changes to increase your dog’s daily activity may be easier now to maintain an ideal body weight.

Making simple dietary and lifestyle changes can be difficult but a healthy weight increases not only length but also the quality of your dog’s life.

Heart Disease in Dogs

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

The most common heart disease in dogs is myxomatous mitral valve degeneration. It is the cause for 75% of dog heart disease.

The mitral valves sit between the left atrium and the left ventricle. They prevent blood from flowing backwards when the left ventricle contracts. The left atrium receives oxygenated blood from the lungs and pumps it into the left ventricle which then pumps the blood into the aorta and out to the rest of the body. The degeneration of the valves is caused by an as yet unidentified process that leads to thickening and shortening of the valves. This results in a hole between the mitral valves’ two leaflets. If the mitral valve is not completely closed, then some of this blood goes backward into the left atrium rather than going into the aorta. This regurgitation of some of the blood can be accommodated by the left atrium to some degree by enlarging or dilating. There can come a point in time though when the left atrium cannot hold any additional blood, then blood backs up into the vessels bringing blood from the lungs to the heart. This can then lead to fluid leaking into the air exchange areas within the lungs or around the lungs. When this happens it is termed congestive heart failure. In spite of the grave nature of that term, this is frequently reversible at least temporarily with medication.

Not all dogs with this disease develop heart failure. It varies from dogs without any symptoms to those developing left-sided congestive heart failure, leading to death. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels often develop myxomatous mitral valve degeneration at a younger age than others where the average age at diagnosis is around 10 years. Breeds that are also predisposed to this disease include Chihuahua, Fox Terrier, Cocker Spaniel, Miniature and Toy Poodle, Pomeranian, Pekingese, Yorkshire Terrier and Dachshund. It is also more common in males than females. Symptoms are not always present but when present, may include coughing, rapid and difficult breathing, intolerance to activity, collapse and fainting.

On physical examination a murmur is typically present. A heart murmur is the sound made by turbulent blood flow. Normally blood flows through the heart in a quiet, smooth manner called laminar flow. If there is any narrowing or obstacles or backward flow in the heart, this leads to turbulent flow and the audible murmur. Many abnormalities at the heart can result in a murmur but a murmur by itself does not indicate treatment is needed. Treatment is based on identifying the cause and severity of changes at the heart. This is done with x-rays of the chest and a heart ultrasound examination. Even if the heart ultrasound examination finds myxomatous mitral valve degeneration, treatment is not always warranted.

If the heart ultrasound shows that the left atrium has significantly enlarged, then the use of a drug, Pimobendan, has been found to prolong the time until heart failure occurs and even prevent its occurrence. Strict guidelines for its use have been established such that if the ratio of the diameter of the left atrium to the aorta is equal to or exceeds 1.6 then the medication should be started. Pimobendan functions to decrease the resistance to blood flow leaving the left ventricle, making it easier for the blood to flow into the aorta rather than backwards into the left atrium. It also increases the ability of the left ventricle to contract. Follow-up ultrasound examination following use of Pimobendan frequently reveals a decrease in enlargement of the left atrium. This is due to its overall effect to encourage blood to flow in the correct direction rather than backwards. For patients that progress to heart failure they usually improve and can be maintained with the addition of diuretics. These are medications that encourage fluid to leave the lungs and prevent its return.

In a dog with myxomatous mitral valve degeneration and no symptoms of disease and mild changes at the heart it may be appropriate to simply re-check the heart ultrasound every 6 to 12 months. Monitoring the dog’s respiratory rate while sleeping is the best method to check for progression of the disease at home. Most dogs with mild myxomatous mitral valve degeneration never have a problem with their heart disease. Unfortunately, those that develop congestive heart failure are likely going to die from it. Fifty percent die within 9 to 10 months. Only a few manage to survive more than 2 years. Early intervention with drugs like Pimobendan, when appropriate, can prevent or prolong the time until congestive heart failure develops.

Itchy Cats

Wed, 23 Jul 2025 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, DVM

There are 4 different patterns of skin lesions resulting from a cat feeling itchy. First is miliary dermatitis. This is when you find or more likely feel tiny crusts on the skin. Interestingly the crusts feel like millet seeds stuck to the skin which is the reason for the name. The second is red skin, hairs broken short or absent and crusting at the head and neck area. The third is hair loss due to biting the hairs short referred to as barbering or fur mowing. Lastly is an assortment of skin lesions collectively referred to as eosinophilic granuloma complex. These lesions are the result of the accumulation of eosinophilis, which is the inflammatory cell that responds to allergies. These lesions can occur anywhere including the mouth and lips. They are red and may vary between resembling a growth to an area of ulceration or tissue destruction.

Unfortunately, these patterns are not helpful in determining the cause for the itching as cat will be cat, e. g. variably predictable.

While most cats are itchy due to allergies, other disease conditions can lead to your cat feeling itchy. Ringworm, a fungal infection, is variable in causing itchiness. Fleas in small numbers are generally well tolerated by cats. But cats, less commonly than dogs, can be flea-allergic such that the bite of the flea and introduction of flea saliva into the skin can cause severe itchiness. Uncommonly, a mite called Demodex can cause itchiness and can be difficult to diagnose. It is killed by the Isoxazoline class of flea control products and so these products are often used with an itchy cat.

Allergies besides allergic reaction to flea saliva include environment allergy termed Atopy and food allergy. For some cats the allergy can be a combination of any of the three. Food allergy can be due to a variety of proteins and carbohydrates. Environmental allergies can occur from weeds, grasses, trees, dust mites and mold spores.

With so many potential causes, there is no one single method to evaluate for the cause. Parameters to consider include how frequently is the problem and is the skin traumatized? May medications can be used for symptomatic control making absolute identification onf the cause unessential. Also when a cat becomes more itchy and likely cause is that an infection has developed as a result of the scratching and chewing. Controlling the secondary infection can significantly decrease the itchiness.

Many medications can be used for symptomatic control of itchiness while the cause is identified and eliminated if possible. Immune modulating therapies should be avoided in cases where suppressing the immune system could precipitate problems such as in a cat with FeLV or FIV. Generally, the most rapid and reliably effective medication is a glucocorticoid (“steroid”) but this medication can have adverse effects especially with long-term use. Modified cyclosporine is generally effective and well tolerated. Apoquel (Oclacitinib) is generally effective but since it is approved for only dogs, it is an “off label” use in cats. Interestingly, Gabapentin in combination with Maropitant (an anti-nausea drug) works quickly and can be given to cats where immune system modulation would be a problem.

If the skin is being traumatized or the itchiness is frequently recurrent then it becomes necessary to determine the cause of the allergy.

In order to have your cat feel better as soon as possible it is recommended to address all 3 potential allergies at the same time. First, flea allergy is the easiest to control with current flea control products. Second, with possible food allergies, the only way to determine if this problem exists is with a dietary trial using a prescription novel protein, hydrolyzed protein or home-cooked novel protein diet over a minimum of 8 weeks. If allergy symptoms have resolved at that time and anti-itch medications have been discontinued then the prior diet can be re-introduced and see if the itch returns. If food allergy is present then generally the itch will return in a few days to few weeks.

For environmental allergy or Atopy, blood testing can be done to determine possible causes. That information can be used to reduce exposure to the offending allergen(s) and for hyposensitization treatment which can reduce long-term dependency on pharmaceuticals. Hyposensitization takes time to become effective, typically 6 – 12 months, but is beneficial in most cats.

Sometimes corticosteroid treatment cannot be avoided. Severe itching is a reduction in life quality. Steroids are valuable tools in the relief of pain and suffering and they are not to be avoided at all costs, rather used judiciously and for the most itchy episode. Using the lowest and least frequent steroid dose to control the itch will spare your cat both short and long-term effects.

Cranial Cruciate Disease in Dogs

Mon, 10 Mar 2025 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

The cranial or anterior cruciate ligament is one of the 4 main ligaments stabilizing the knee or stifle joint. Most commonly, rupture of the cranial cruciate ligament is due to degenerative changes and chronic inflammation that is sometimes compounded by trauma.

Approximately 50% of dogs with complete tears also have a tear in the medial meniscus, which is a cartilage pad on top of the tibia or shin bone. Since cranial cruciate tears are a result of progressive, degenerative changes, often times the sudden onset of non-weight bearing lameness is proceeded by intermittent, chronic bouts of variable lameness.

Rupture of the cranial cruciate is such a common cause for sudden onset of hind limb lameness in the dog that any sudden onset of hind limb lameness is due to cruciate disease unless proven otherwise. Generally the pain associated with a torn cruciate ligament is such that there is little to no weight bearing on the affected leg. If the cruciate tear is not treated then there likely will be some improvement seen over several weeks, but lameness will persist and the resultant arthritis will be worse with no surgical treatment.

Diagnosis of cruciate disease can typically be made based on physical examination and x-rays of the stifle along with possibly other joints on the same leg to eliminate other problems contributing to the lameness. Typically, physical exam demonstrates a “drawer” sign with cruciate ligament rupture. This is a movement of the top of the tibia (shin bone) forward from underneath the femur (thigh bone) that would not be possible if the cruciate ligament was intact. It is possible with dogs, especially large dogs, for them to tense muscles so tightly during examination that they must be sedated to accurately do this test. Also a partial rupture may not result in an obvious “drawer” sign.

X-rays are helpful for a number of reasons. While the cruciate ligament itself cannot be visualized with x-rays, a characteristic pattern of effusion (change in normal x-ray density) occurs with cruciate disease. It is also valuable to know the extent of arthritis, changes of which can be seen on x-rays, to prognosticate on extent of recovery of pain free movement after surgery.

Rupture of the cranial cruciate ligament is most commonly due to an idiopathic degenerative condition within the stifle joint. Many large breeds of dogs are particularly at risk and a study in Labradors has found a genetic risk. For a Labrador that ruptures a cranial cruciate ligament about 62% of the risk is genetic. A genetic test is available to determine risk in Labradors. The test accurately predicts at 98% if a Labrador will rupture a cruciate ligament. A recently published study indicated that neutering before 12 months of age is associated with greater risk of cruciate rupture in Labradors. Weight control is important for decreasing load and stress on the stifle joint. In one study, obesity quadrupled the risk of cranial cruciate ligament rupture.

Treatment for a ruptured cruciate ligament is surgery. For dogs weighing more than 30 pounds, less than 20% have an acceptable outcome without surgical treatment. There are 2 primary objectives with surgery. The first is to accurately identify and remove any torn meniscus. This is the cartilage pad on top of the tibia (shin bone) that is attached to the cranial cruciate ligament and is often torn when a cranial cruciate ligament tears. If the torn meniscus is left, it will result in persistent pain like a pebble under your foot in a shoe.

The cruciate ligament’s function is to prevent the movement of the tibia forward when pressure is directed downwards on it by the femur. The second objective of surgery is to fix what a torn cruciate ligament is unable to do. Several procedures have been developed. The generally preferred procedure for active dogs and dogs over 45 pounds is the tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO). This procedure essentially changes the angle or slope of the top of the tibia so that when force is directed downwards through the femur, the pressure tries to push the tibia backwards which it cannot do because of other ligaments. This provides dynamic stabilization of the stifle.

With rupture of the cranial cruciate ligament there will be development of some arthritis. In order to minimize this, the rupture must be treated surgically and in a timely manner. Following surgery, weight reduction if indicated along with chondroprotective agents can be helpful. For some, medical therapy with a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory and other pain relieving medication maybe needed. Most importantly, with cranial cruciate ligament rupture in order to prevent debilitating arthritis, if not already present, one needs timely surgical intervention.

Vaccinating Your Cat

Tue, 25 Feb 2025 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

The vaccinations recommended for a particular cat depends on many factors such as: indoors only or indoors and outdoors; boarding facility requirements if needed; contact with people other than family especially if temperamental, i.e. prone to bite, etc.

Vaccinations are divided into “core” vaccines that every cat should have and “non-core” vaccines that a cat should have depending on lifestyle. Core vaccinations includes Panleukopenia or feline distemper which is a very contagious, life-threatening infection, affecting first the bone marrow’s ability to make white blood cells and then moving on to the intestine. Death usually occurs before symptoms like vomiting and diarrhea appear. Additionally, the core vaccination includes Rhinotracheitis (herpes virus) and Calicivirus that are responsible for about 90% of upper respiratory infections. These viruses are spread by wet sneezes of infected or carrier cats. A cat infected with Calicivirus can be contagious for several months after infection. The Calcivirus can also remain alive in the environment for up to 1 month.

Rabies vaccination is often considered a core vaccination even for indoor cats. Rabies exposure can occur indoors in some local areas. Bats, along with less commonly skunks, have been shown to be carriers of rabies in the bay area. When affected the bat can fly into the house and since it is often times neurologically impaired it makes for easy prey. Once bitten by a bat with rabies, the cat will be affected by the rabies if not vaccinated. This also is a consideration if your cat bites someone as human health officials can direct what happens to your cat depending on vaccination status.

Feline leukemia vaccination is a non-core vaccination for indoor only cats. This virus is spread by close contact or sharing food, water dishes or elimination areas. As long as there are no cats carrying the feline leukemia virus in the household then for an indoor only cat there is no risk of exposure. There are no specific clinical signs associated with this disease which can impact many of the body’s systems. It is recommended that cats be tested for feline leukemia before vaccination. If an infected cat is vaccinated it does not affect the carrier state, capacity to infect other cats or development of disease in the infected cat.

One vaccination plan or protocol cannot be applied to every cat. Each must be evaluated and an individualized plan created that will protect that particular cat. That plan must be reassessed when changes in health and lifestyle occurs.

Vaccinating Your Dog

Thu, 13 Feb 2025 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Preventative wellness includes vaccinations and medications to prevent development of debilitating disease conditions.

Vaccine types recommended and frequency of vaccination vary depending on the life style of the dog being vaccinated. These include travel plans, kennel/boarding, grooming establishment plans, dog park visits, etc. Because these factors and disease prevalence may change over time it is best that the vaccination plan is decided at routine annual examinations following a discussion between the veterinarian and the dog owner.

Very young puppies are very susceptible to infectious diseases because their immune systems are not yet mature. If their mother has been vaccinated, then they receive some protection with antibodies present in their mother’s milk but that protection is of a short duration. It takes time for their immune system to develop so that it can respond to vaccination. Typically, this is not until 12 weeks of age. To provide the best protection against disease during the first months of life, it is recommended to give a series of vaccinations, usually 3 to 4 weeks apart. The final vaccination is around 4 months of age when the immune system would be expected to be developed enough to provide a good response for reliable protection.

Core vaccines are those recommended for all dogs as the diseases cause severe illness and vaccination results in good protection. For dogs this includes distemper, parvovirus, adenovirus, leptospirosis and rabies.

Distemper virus can lead to many disease symptoms and while unstable in the environment, it can affect a number of hosts such as coyotes, skunks and raccoons and has worldwide distribution.

Parvovirus is the most common cause of viral intestinal disease in dogs. Risk of infection is primarily associated with viral particles from other domestic dogs and the virus is relatively stable in the environment.

Canine adenovirus type 2 is part of the canine infectious respiratory disease complex and vaccination for it protects against type 1 also which causes an infectious liver disease. Adenovirus type 1 vaccination has been associated with occasional side effects and since vaccination for type 2 protects against type 1, it is not recommended.

There are 4 types of serovars of Leptospirosis in North America and so it is recommended to use the 4-serovar vaccination. This is a vaccination best given separately rather than in a combination with Distemper and Parvovirus vaccination. It is also best to give Leptospirosis vaccination in a location separate from other vaccines to improve response to the vaccination and there is also a possible decrease in response to Distemper and Parvovirus vaccination when given in combination with Leptospirosis.

Leptospirosis can be transmitted by rodents and so it’s no longer just a rural dog problem. Dogs most at risk are those spending any time outdoors, exposure to area where rodents have been and time in kennels or dog day cares. Leptospirosis is a disease that can be transmitted to people and is the most common zoonosis in the world. In the past there has been the concern about adverse reactions to Leptospirosis vaccination. Formulations have now been altered to minimize this likelihood. Nevertheless, it is recommended to give the initial Leptospirosis vaccination at 12 weeks of age and giving at a separate time from multiple other vaccinations.

Non-core vaccinations are optional vaccines that should be considered based on exposure risk which is primarily based on geographic distribution and your dog’s lifestyle. Non-core vaccines include Lyme disease caused by a tick-transmitted borrelia. Currently, infections are largely restricted to Connecticut and surrounding states and north eastern Canada. Since prevention of tick feeding prevents disease transmission, this disease is most effectively prevented with effective flea control.

Bordetella bacteria and Parainfluenza virus and Canine adenovirus type 2 are all organisms associated with canine infectious respiratory disease. Intranasal vaccination is recommended for dogs expected to be in close association with other dogs such as a boarding or grooming facility. Intranasal is more effective than oral in stimulating a response in the respiratory tract and injectable vaccination may have minimal benefit. Duration of immunity to Bordetella may be only 6 months at best. If your dog is regularly boarded then vaccination at least every 6 months is recommended. The vaccine should also be administered at least 1 week before boarding for maximal protection.

Canine influenza virus infections have resulted in multiple outbreaks throughout the US and was a problem in the south bay area in December 2017 to January 2018. The virus causes upper respiratory signs including a cough, nasal discharge and low grade fever with a small number progressing to a severe pneumonia. A vaccination including both serotypes H3N8 and H3N2 is recommended for broad immunity. Vaccination for dogs at boarding kennels, day care and dog parks would be recommended in an outbreak.

In regards to vaccination against rattlesnake toxoid, there is no documented efficacy at this time. The vaccine is for the Western Diamond Back rattlesnake venom toxoid and rattlesnake venom is antigenically different between rattlesnake species. As such there is also no data to support the effectiveness of vaccination to venom of rattlesnakes in this area.

Vaccinations given and frequency is based on individual needs determined by patient’s history and risk of disease exposure. Whereas core vaccines are recommended for every dog regardless of lifestyle, non-core vaccine recommendations are determined by assessing the likelihood of a dog’s exposure to a given infectious disease.

Miramonte Veterinary Hospital is accredited by American Animal Hospital Association since 1996.

Heart Disease in Cats

Sun, 08 Dec 2024 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

The most common heart disease in cats is hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM). HCM is a thickening (hypertrophy)of the wall of the left ventricle of the heart preventing the left ventricle from filling with a normal amount of blood. This results in a decreased volume of blood being pumped out by the heart. It is a disease that affects 1 in 7 cats while in humans, it affects 1 in 500.

A genetic cause is suspected since the disease has been found to be associated with particular breeds and has been shown to be heritable. Many cases though have no clear inheritance pattern and the regular domestic short hair cat is the most commonly affected.

As HCM develops and progresses there can be several effects on the heart and mild disease may not show any obvious problems. If the disease is severe enough then blood backs up into the left atrium and into blood vessels from the lungs to the heart. This forces fluid from capillaries in the lungs into the air exchange spaces within the lungs, resulting in pulmonary edema and fluid leaks into space between the lungs and chest cavity. When this happens, it is called congestive heart failure.

Some cats also suffer from heart arrythmias (abnormal electrical activity at the heart) which can result in sudden death. A small number also can develop blood clots which can suddenly cause blockage primarily where the aorta divides into the arteries carrying blood to the hind limbs.

Symptoms of a cat having problems with this disease can be extremely variable. Again, mild disease doesn’t cause obvious problems but cats are masters at hiding problems. Subtle early symptoms such as a mildly increased respiratory rate can go unnoticed. Cats, unlike dogs, know that if they are going to be short of breath after dashing across a room, simply don’t run across the room. Indeed, many times the first indication of a possible problem is when a veterinarian hears an abnormality on physical examination. Even then a heart murmur is heard in less than 50% of affected cats.

The diagnosis of HCM is with ultrasound of the heart. If thickening of the wall of the left ventricle is found, then other causes for that must be ruled out prior to diagnosing HCM. The two most common causes other than HCM is systemic hypertension (high blood pressure) and hyperthyroidism (high thyroid hormone disease). Fortunately, these two problems are easily treated which generally results in return of the heart wall to normal thickness.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for HCM. Generally, therapy is begun when the left atrium becomes enlarged. This is when the risk of heart failure or blood clot formation becomes high. Therapies are currently being investigated. Rapamycin, a compound produced by bacteria and used in human medicine to suppress immune function in transplant patients has been found in cats to reduce left ventricular wall thickness or halt thickening in the early stages of HCM. Investigation into the usefulness of this medication is on-going.

The most commonly affected breed is the domestic short hair cat. Ragdoll and Maine Coot cats can have a specific gene mutation that should be screened for. If they have the mutation then a heart ultrasound should be done at 2 to 3 years of age and annually thereafter.

Ultimately, an ultrasound of the heart is needed to diagnose this disease which typically goes undiagnosed until symptoms, such as symptoms of congestive heart failure, are noticed. Although congestive heart failure can be medically treated, it becomes more difficult to manage over time. Survival for cats with HCM and heart failure is 1 to 1 ½ months after diagnosis.

Early symptoms such as subtle respiratory symptoms may suggest a need for chest x-rays and heart ultrasound. Certainly, any murmur in a cat is potentially significant and should be further evaluated with an ultrasound. Heart wall thickening can occur with chronic hypertension or high thyroid hormone disease. Both of which are very treatable and once treated can result in some or complete resolution of the heart condition. A thorough and careful history and physical examination by your veterinarian is the first place to start.

Miramonte Veterinary Hospital is certified as a Cat Friendly Practice by the Feline Veterinary Medical Association.

Housetraining for Puppies

Tue, 12 Nov 2024 16:47:20 GMT

It is normal for puppies not to want to soil their nesting area and the goal is to have them understand that the entire house is their nesting area. This is best accomplished by initially limiting their space to a dog crate when not being actively supervised. The crate should have just enough room to stand up and turn around in. If you purchased a crate larger than that, then a cardboard box can be added to shrink down to a desired space. Once housetraining is coming along then the space can be expanded. Start with the kitchen and the family room. If that is going well then gradually add on other rooms of the house.

Puppies generally need to eliminate after eating, when released from confinement, after any play and after waking up, even from a short nap. So be sure to take your puppy outside right after, preferably to an area of grass or at least loose leaf/plant litter. You can use cue word(s), e.g. “do your business”, “hurry up”, or “potty”, when your puppy eliminates outdoors. Besides telling them they’re good, give a favorite food treat with more praise. You’ll always get further with positive reinforcement than any negative discipline. Signs your puppy may need to eliminate include circling, sneaking off and heading to the door. Immediately, take your puppy to its elimination site, give your verbal cue and as soon as elimination is complete, lavishly praise and give a food treat.

If you catch your puppy starting to eliminate in the house then picking them up and saying “no” in a low voice while carrying them outside to eliminate is fine but otherwise negative reinforcement is not helpful and may result in you puppy being fearful of your approach. Also, punishment increases the likelihood that your dog will not eliminate in front of you but unlikely to stop them from eliminating in the house when you’re not looking. Bottom line is you want to reward your puppy for doing the correct thing. They will then want to wait to eliminate outdoors in anticipation of the food treat. Walks outside before any confinement or bedtime will encourage elimination and make it easier to wait until the next opportunity.

If your puppy has an accident in the house, you should put them somewhere else where they cannot see you clean up their mess. Otherwise, they view this as getting attention and therefore, rewarded for eliminating in the wrong location. It is important to remove any remaining odor as that will encourage them to continue to eliminate in that location. A product that combines an enzyme and detergent is best. If possible, it is best to prevent access to that location by placing furniture such as an ottoman over that spot.

Generally, if the puppy did not have any accidents in the house for several weeks, you can gradually expand your puppy’s access to the rest of the house without supervision. If your puppy is having problems making it through the night, then taking the water bowl away 2 hours prior to bedtime and again, long walks outdoors prior to bedtime can help. Usually by 4 months of age, puppies can make it through the night. Be aware that being housetrained to your house doesn’t necessarily mean your puppy is housetrained to another house.

It is best to go straight to train to eliminate outdoors rather than paper training or training to use house training pads. Otherwise, your puppy may not quickly understand that elimination is to be done outdoors and not indoors. An exception would be those living in a high rise or when it is not practical to take the puppy out frequently enough. The puppy can be confined to a small area covered in paper except for the sleeping area and once the puppy chooses a location then gradually shrink down the paper coverage to just that location.

Finally, you will always get further and faster when training with positive reinforcement than negative discipline. Your puppy will quickly learn to wait until going outside to do their “business” since there is going to be favorable attention and a food reward.

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Heatstroke in Dogs

Tue, 15 Oct 2024 17:11:41 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

The weather here is as perfect as it gets for being outdoors at any time of day and any day of the year. So when warm weather comes the effects on our pets can come as a surprise especially on a midday hike in the hills or traveling to a warmer area. The effects of heatstroke can come quickly and mortality is 50%.

Heatstroke occurs when the body is generating more heat that it can get rid of. Heatstroke is an increase in body temperature, not as a result of a fever, but rather due to hot and/or humid conditions outside the body. It can occur when left outdoors in hot/humid weather without shade, when exercised in hot/humid weather or when left in a car even on a relatively cool day. A study by Stanford University Medical Center found that the temperature inside a vehicle increases on average 40 degrees F within 1 hour regardless of outside temperature. At body temperatures greater than 105.8° F, a systemic inflammatory process resulting in multiple organ dysfunction occurs.

Short-nosed breeds of dogs, obese dogs, older dogs and those with upper airway or heart disease have more difficulty regulating body temperature. Nervous and excitable dogs along with those being excessively exercised are also at risk. Signs of heatstroke may begin with excessive panting and appearing distressed and becoming restless. Large amounts of saliva may come out of the mouth and/or nose. Weakness and difficulty in standing may then occur and you may notice gums looking bright red or purple/blue.

If you suspect heatstroke then institute evaporative cooling but avoid ice baths/ice packs due to resultant vessel constriction, decreasing heat loss. Do not cover with wet towels but rather misting with water and placing in front of air conditioner or windows pulled down on the way to a veterinary hospital. Allow to drink cool water if he or she wants to. Heatstroke is a disease that affects the entire body and simply lowering the body temperature may not address severe complications.

A dog with heatstroke should be seen immediately by a veterinarian. Do not delay presentation to a veterinary hospital as additional therapy is needed. Active cooling after body temperature reaches 102° – 103.5° can result in a dangerous continued decrease in body temperature. Additional therapy is to start intravenous fluids as soon as possible along with supplemental oxygen as needed and intravenous sugar if needed. Intravenous Mannitol may be indicated to prevent brain edema and restore urine output if kidney injury has occurred. Intravenous antibiotics are needed due to potential movement of intestinal bacteria into the blood. Monitoring for abnormal heart electrical activity and bleeding disorders is necessary.

To prevent heatstroke from happening do not keep dogs outside without shade. A wading pool can help. There is no answer to whether to clip or not to clip a long-haired dog. If you do, clip them no closer than 1-2 cm as any shorter can lead to sunburn. Adding low sodium chicken broth to the water will increase intake. Be careful with older dogs lying in a sunny window as they may not be able to realize they are becoming over heated. And, of course, be careful with leaving dogs in a car even on cool days.

Prognosis for heatstroke depends on severity of initial signs and response to therapy. Again, mortality rates are around 50%.

Severe heatstroke affects nearly every system in the body. Simply lowering the body temperature will likely not address the catastrophic events that result from heatstroke. A pet suffering from heatstroke should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

Reducing the Stress of Getting Your Cat to the Veterinarian

Tue, 15 Oct 2024 16:55:13 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Traveling to the veterinarian can be upsetting for you and your cat. There are several steps you can take to make it easier. First, if you’re able to prepare well ahead of the visit, you can make the carrier a positive experience. With the top removed you can make the carrier the place where your cat eats or if your cat has a favorite blanket or towel it sleeps on, you can put that in the carrier so that it becomes a favorite sleeping place. Once your cat is used to that, then add the carrier top. Once your cat is going in and out with top on then close the door and gradually increase the time spent in a closed carrier. Then proceed with picking up the carrier from the bottom to reduce movement and keep level.

The best carrier is a hard plastic one with an easily removable top with a large top opening. If you’re taking more than one cat they should be in separate carriers. The stress of travel may make them act differently towards each other than they would at home.

Having your cat regularly spend time in the carrier makes it much easier to get into the carrier when needed, especially in emergencies. If you are having difficulty getting your cat urgently into the carrier, you can cover the cat with an open pillow case and gently slip the opening under or roll your cat into the pillow case and twist the opening closed. You can then lower your cat in the pillow case into the top opening and close the top opening. There is no need to remove the pillow case as your cat can breathe just fine inside the pillow case and may be more comfortable “hiding” in the pillow case.

For some cats traveling to the veterinarian and at the veterinary hospital is still stressful. If this is the case, it is best to give medication to reduce stress before traveling. Gabapentin is a mild anti-anxiety medication that can be easily given by adding to a small amount of moist food 2 hours prior to travel. For some, additional anti-anxiety or sedative medication is needed and can be prescribed by your veterinarian depending on your cat’s needs. Some cats have motion sickness and medication can be given to prevent nausea.

Other good ideas are to cover the carrier with a blanket or thick towel to reduce sights and sounds. Safest secure location for the carrier in the car is on the floor or secured with bungee cords to the seat. Never open the carrier in the car. This can be dangerous to both you and your cat when driving and can result in escaping the car at your destination. Just speak to your cat in a quiet, calm voice.

When you get home from a veterinary visit, if you have other cats at home be aware that your cat may smell and look different to your other cats. This can result in all your cats being upset. Keep the returning cat in the carrier and monitor response from other cats. If there is hissing then keep the returning cat in a separate room with food, water and litter box, especially if your cat is returning from a sedative or anesthetic event. The next day, the returning cat will smell more familiar after sleeping/grooming in the home environment and will have had time to completely recover from any sedative or anesthetic event.

Avoiding veterinary visits to prevent stress can be harmful to your cat’s health. Stress can be reduced by preparing for the visit with choosing a good cat carrier and if needed acclimating your cat to the carrier. The stress of travel can again be reduced by covering the carrier with a blanket or thick towel before moving from your house to the car and by giving medications if needed. Lastly, anticipate and prepare for what may be needed after returning home if there is another cat at home.

Miramonte Veterinary Hospital is certified as a Cat Friendly Practice by the Feline Veterinary Medical Association.

Ear Inflammation in Dogs

Sun, 29 Sep 2024 17:01:56 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Commonly referred to as an ear infection, the inflammation of the ear canal is what allows organisms often times normally present in the ear canal to result in an infection. The organisms are opportunists and not contagious. Ear inflammation and the commonly resulting infection is triggered by an underlying allergic condition. The allergy causes the ear to become inflamed which disrupts the normal protective barrier. Once disrupted, organisms like malassezia, a yeast organism, or bacteria, that are typically in the ear, take advantage of the situation and invade the lining of the ear canal. This results in additional inflammation causing more discomfort and irritation.

Symptoms of ear inflammation can include head shaking, scratching at the ear, rubbing the ear on the floor, or tilting the head so that the affected ear is pointed down and a foul odor of the ear is often detected. Inflammation of the ear is most commonly a symptom of an underlying allergy, likely either Atopy, an allergy to something in the environment, or a food allergy or sometimes both.

To effectively treat ear inflammation, both the underlying cause and subsequent opportunistic infection need to be treated. If this is a frequently recurrent problem, i.e. within 3 months, then evaluation of the nature of the allergy is needed to help prevent recurrences. Microscopic evaluation of the ear debris can determine if it is bacteria or a malessezia or sometimes both. This allows specific anti-microbial treatment to be started. Sometimes a catch-all medication, an antibacterial, antifungal and corticosteroid is sent home to be put in the ear. Unfortunately, this is not always effective and can encourage development of antibacterial and antifungal resistance which can be a problem with future treatment. Bacterial resistance to antibiotics is encouraged by indiscriminate use of antibiotics and with recurrent use.

Treatment always includes a topical corticosteroid placed in the ear along with an antibacterial and/or antifungal agent as indicated on microscopic examination. An anti-inflammatory/anti-itch medication given by mouth is always needed and sometimes an antibacterial and/or antifungal given by mouth also. With recurrent bacterial infections, a culture to determine which antibiotic will be effective, is needed and given for an appropriate length of treatment. The ear canal lining can be thickened with bacteria deep inside the thickened lining. The thickened ear canal lining hinders exposure of the bacteria to an antibiotic either placed in the ear or reaching it through the blood stream. This then effects the duration of treatment. If chronic inflammation is present then effective treatment often requires corticosteroid in the ear and orally.

Importantly, the ear canal needs to be kept free of debris. Otherwise, medication diluted in ear canal debris is not reaching the lining of the ear canal. This may require multiple ear flushes or even suctioning the material from the ear canal. Initially, this may even not be possible due to extensive narrowing of the ear canal from the inflammation. Also, until the inflammation is controlled it encourages rapid re-formation of the ear canal debris due to inflammation in part increasing ceruminous gland production.

Resolving ear inflammation can sometimes require long-term treatment. Two factors are key in treating. One is that the inflammation must be controlled which often necessitates oral corticosteroids. Two is the complicating infection needs to be eliminated, which requires that an effective antimicrobial is used both in the ear and possibly, orally for a sufficient duration of time and that the ear canal is kept free of debris so that the medication can reach the ear canal lining. Preventing frequent return of the problem necessitates determining the source of the inflammation and medication or special diet used to help prevent the return of the inciting allergy.

Ultrasound in Pets

Mon, 27 Nov 2023 17:30:12 GMT

Kenton Taylor, DVM

There are primarily 2 uses for ultrasound in pets. One is evaluation of organs in the abdomen and the other is evaluation and determining significance of heart murmurs and heart disease.

Evaluation of abdominal organs may be indicated due to symptoms associated with an organ or results from physical examination or laboratory tests. X-rays can be helpful to evaluate abdominal organ size and shape but ultrasound provides a cross sectional image to evaluate for architectural changes within an organ. The tests are complimentary to each other and not a duplicate. Organs evaluated include the liver, gall bladder, spleen, kidneys, urinary bladder, reproductive organs, stomach, pancreas, intestines, adrenal glands and lymph nodes. Ultrasound is also superior to x-rays to evaluate for the presence of abdominal fluid and if present, to guide a needle to facilitate sampling of the fluid. Ultrasound is extremely valuable to guide hypodermic needles into abdominal organs to aspirate tissue or fluid. This has largely replaced the need to perform an exploratory surgery of the abdomen, decades ago, to evaluate organs and obtain samples for a diagnosis. When aspirates are insufficient for a diagnosis, a biopsy needle can be used with ultrasound guidance to obtain information.

Other than abdominal organs, tissues that can be evaluated with ultrasound include the eye, some tendons, tissue just under the skin like thyroid glands and in some cases tissue within the chest. Organs that can be evaluated in the chest are usually limited to the heart. This is because the high frequency sound waves used to create the live images do not pass through air. There must be an air-free interface between the ultrasound probe and the organ to be evaluated. Only the heart has a point of air-free contact with the body wall. Exceptions include fluid surrounding the lungs and enlargement of an organ like lymph nodes or a mass such that it contacts the chest wall. Besides guiding a needle for sampling of fluid for diagnostic purposes, ultrasound can be used therapeutically to guide removal of fluid that is compressing the lungs and heart when abnormally present.

Evaluation for heart murmurs and heart disease is the other primary use of ultrasound. A murmur is an abnormal sound that is caused by turbulent blood flow. Normally blood flows through the heart in a quiet, smooth manner – called laminar flow. If there are obstacles or narrowing within the heart then this causes turbulent flow which is heard as a murmur. The presence of a murmur doesn’t mean that the heart is necessarily an ineffective pump but that a significant problem may be present. Chest x-rays to evaluate for changes in heart size and shape and changes in vessels going to and from the heart can be helpful but does not allow for cross-sectional imaging and more importantly, an assessment of the dynamic function of the heart.

In cats in particular, heart disease can be present and the overall heart-size and shape normal on chest x-rays. Unfortunately, cats can also have significant heart disease without a murmur being present. Therefore, ultrasound of the heart is the only test to determine whether or not cats have heart disease.

Ultrasound of the heart allows for determination of the source of a murmur and more importantly, the impact the cause is having or likely to have on heart function and complications associated with the problem. In some cases such as the relatively common degenerative mitral valve disease, medication can be used as appropriate to slow or even prevent progression to possible heart failure.

Ultrasound is painless and performed in a quiet dark room. Most pets are able to lie comfortably without stress and with minimal restraint during the procedure. Most pets do not need sedation.

While ultrasound does have some limitations such that it cannot pass through thick bone or air, it has frequent and daily applications in practice. Uses include obtaining urine samples from small urinary bladders; checking for fluid in the abdomen, chest and around the heart and guiding a needle to sample or remove the fluid; and organ evaluation in birds and reptiles where x-rays have limited usefulness due to lack of fat surrounding their organs.

Ultrasound ultimately contributes greatly to rapid, accurate and less invasive evaluation of many problems allowing for timely decisions on treatment options.

Cats not using their litter box

Wed, 01 Feb 2023 17:27:46 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Cats tend to eliminate on surfaces they find most appealing to do so. Litter should be chosen to appeal to the cat and not the people. In general, cats prefer a texture similar to sand and no scent. It also means the litter must be clean and the box itself washed as needed but at least once weekly. If residual odor exists then can soak with Anti-Icky Poo. It is recommended to have at least one more litter box than the number of cats so that an unsoiled litter box is always available.

Litter boxes are best placed in a quiet area and with no cover at least to start. Boxes need to be at least 1 ½ times the body length and sides may need to be cut lower for kittens and older, arthritic cats to easily get in and out of. If a cat develops an aversion to using a litter box then an anti-anxiety medication is warranted. Different litter types, litter box types and litter locations can be tried. A litter box additive called Cat Attract which adds an earthy scent can be helpful.

To discourage a cat from using an inappropriate surface, the surface needs to be cleaned and a deodorizer used repeatedly. Wall-to-wall carpeting may need to be replaced. Applying a strong citrus scent such as lemon scented soap to the surface will make it less appealing as well as covering with thick plastic sheeting, plastic carpet runner with nubs up, double-sided sticky tape or motion sensor with compressed air (SSSCAT). Some cats will not eliminate where they are fed so food dishes can be placed on the inappropriate surface.

Behavioral modification is going to be important regardless of the cause of the problem – behavioral or medical. It is imperative to rule out medical problems first. Medical problems can include a bladder infection or stone, increased water consumption due to an illness and more commonly in older cats, arthritis. Lastly, an incompletely understood condition called feline idiopathic cystitis can lead to inappropriate urination, straining to urinate, increased urination frequency and often times blood in the urine.

If the problem is determined not to be a medical problem and correction of a litter box aversion is unsuccessful, then an anti-anxiety medication is likely needed. House soiling needs to be distinguished from marking behavior and may be difficult to distinguish in some cases. Urine marking can include urination on a vertical surface, urinating on new furniture or dirty laundry or on the bed; near a door or window; still urinating sometimes in the litter box and sometimes following a change in the household especially a new pet or person.

In the case of urine marking the earlier anti-anxiety medication is started, the more likely the problem will be controlled. While the medications are very safe and generally given just once a day, they can take 2 months or more to determine their effectiveness.

A cat may mark due to presence of other cats both inside and outside of the home. Marking can occur in response to stress or anxiety and is most common when there are 3 or more cats in the household. If the problem is due to social interactions inside the home, it maybe necessary to determine which cats do not get along. Keep these cats in separate parts of the home with their own litter and sleeping areas. Allowing the cats together for positive experiences, such as feeding, treats and play sessions, helps them to get used to the presence of one another. Again, with marking behavior, anti-anxiety medications need to be started immediately and any social concerns addressed to have the best chance of success. After several months of marking behavior, anti-anxiety medications may not be helpful as it becomes a learned behavior.

As a last resort the cat can be confined to a small area such as a large plastic carrier with a litter box. After the cat consistently uses the litter box can then expand cat’s access to a larger area such as the bathroom and then a larger room, etc. until it is allowed full access.

Many people waste time and effort on the wrong approach until they want to get rid of their cat. Even if your cat occasionally eliminates inappropriately, please contact your veterinarian promptly.

Allergies in Dogs & Cats

Mon, 27 Dec 2021 17:33:23 GMT

Kenton Taylor, DVM

Few problems can be as frustrating for pet owners --and veterinarians-- as allergies. For dogs and cats the itchy feeling can cause severe irritation and self-mutilation. Treating allergies can be as simple as an effective flea control. However, in severe cases gaining complete control of allergies can be elusive and necessitate multiple treatments. They are nearly always a lifelong problem and can be expensive to control.

Generally, if a dog or cat has an allergy to one thing, then to some degree it is allergic to many things. The primary causes are

Fleas. Flea allergies are a reaction to flea saliva.
Environmental factors. Allergies include dust mites, grasses, weeds and trees.
Food. Such allergies can be due to many different dietary ingredients.

Sorting out which allergy or combination of causes is responsible for a pet’s itchy feeling is best done with a strict, systematic approach. The location of biting, chewing, rubbing, etc. can be helpful as well as knowledge of the breed, age and whether it is a seasonal problem. The possibility of mites cannot be overlooked, and at least a cursory evaluation for mites must be done first. Bacterial and malassezial (yeast) infections can mimic allergies and are a frequent complication of the biting and chewing associated with them. These infections must be controlled and kept under control when dealing with allergies.

The easiest allergy to control is an allergic reaction to flea saliva. Even the bite of one flea can cause an allergic reaction. Effective flea control on all dogs and cats in the household will control this allergy. Unfortunately, many products claim to be effective but are not. Consult with your veterinarian.

Environmental allergies (Atopy) and food allergy symptoms are similar, and distinguishing between the two can be difficult. In dogs, both can cause rubbing or scratching the face, chewing the paws and recurrent ear infections. While food allergies generally start at less than 1 year of age or older than 5 years, atopy generally starts between 3 to 6 years of age. Atopy can be seasonal, at least at first, while food allergy symptoms are usually year-round. In cats, atopy and food allergies are much less common than flea allergies, and occur with equal frequency and without a unique pattern.

Corticosteroids generally control atopy, but long-term use is associated with undesirable side effects. Newer immune system modulating drugs such as Apoquel® (oclacitinib) and Atopica® (cyclosporine) can also be effective, with Apoquel generally effective in reducing the itch resulting from atopy and/or food allergy. Both medications may also have long-term side-effects, which need to be monitored for. For atopic dogs, an injectable monoclonal antibody (Cytopoint ™) that blocks the protein interleukin-3 --which results in the itch-- is highly effective and safe.

Long-term therapy is best done with multiple therapies, including immunotherapy, based on blood or skin allergy testing; antimicrobial therapy, with shampoos and other topical products; and skin barrier therapy, with topical products and essential fatty acid supplementation.

Food allergies are treated by avoiding the offending food allergens. While beef, poultry, chicken and wheat are commonly implicated, the adverse reaction can be to any food or food additive.

There is no accurate blood test for food allergies. To make a definitive diagnosis, one must feed his or her pet a dietary trial for 3 months, and if improvement is seen, then feed the former diet to see if there is an adverse response. While a home-prepared diet is best, prescription veterinary diets are easier --but no single one will work all the time. Usually improvement will be seen in 4-5 weeks, but if no improvement is seen in 12 weeks, then try another. 100% compliance is essential and this means no treats, table food or flavored medications. All skin infections also need to be eliminated by the end of the trial, as a common complication with any allergy is skin infections.

Allergies are a lifelong problem and tend not to just disappear. When dealing with allergies, a systematic and disciplined approach is key. Trying a little of this or that generally is ineffective and leaves one frustrated and having to start all over again. Patience is needed. While “flare ups” will likely occur, allergies can be controlled by a systematic approach and close monitoring by your veterinarian.

What is effective dental cleaning for your dog or cat?

Tue, 10 Aug 2021 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, DVM

Well-meaning pet owners can be quite surprised when their pet requires multiple tooth extractions when they have regularly had non-professional dental scaling done. The primary reason is that removal of dental tartar on the visible surfaces of the teeth is not enough. The effect is purely cosmetic. Tartar under the gum line within the gingival pocket can only be removed under anesthesia and left on the teeth will contribute to periodontal disease. Periodontal disease starts with inflammation of the gums (gingivitis) and can lead to periodontitis which is los of the tooth supporting tissues. Most small breed dogs have periodontal disease by 3 years of. Untreated dental disease especially where extractions are needed is painful for your pet. Many times pet owners have commented on how much more active and engaging their pet is after dental treatment.

What about anesthesia? All anesthesia is not the same. Safe anesthesia requires first a thorough pre-operative examination and any appropriate laboratory testing. Gas anesthesia with a tracheal tube is administered as well as intravenous fluids and preemptive pain control. Usage of anesthesia requires close monitoring – per American Animal Hospital Association guidelines, one person monitors anesthesia while another performs the dental cleaning. Monitoring equipment is also used but it does not replace a dedicated anesthetist.

Effective dental cleaning is cleaning both sides of the tooth and again most importantly under the gum line with an ultrasonic scaler. Additional hand scaling especially of any exposed tooth root is done as needed. Periodontal pockets (space between the gum & bone and the tooth) are probed and measured. Any abnormal pockets and other dental abnormalities are recorded on a chart. Teeth are then polished with paste as a smooth surface discourages plaque formation. The area under the gums is then irrigated to remove debris & paste. Deep pockets can be filled with an antibiotic gelatin to slow periodontal disease and sealants can be applied to the surface also to discourage plaque formation.

Dental x-rays (radiographs) are an essential step for most dental cleanings. Since introducing dental radiography to our practice over 19 years ago, I have been consistently surprised by the dental problems seen on radiographs that were not evident on dental examination. Following dental cleaning, home care is important and can include brushing, anti-septic rinses, applying sealants, dental diets, dental chews, and antiseptics added to the drinking water.

Annual or for some, bi-annual dental exams are important for pets to live a long, healthy life. If you notice your cat or dog has bad breath and teeth that are covered in tartar; drooling or dropping food from the mouth; bleeding from the mouth or shying away when you touch the mouth area then dental or oral disease is likely present and an appointment with your veterinarian is recommended.

Anxious Dogs

Fri, 27 Mar 2020 17:19:00 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Anxiety and phobias are common in dogs and often result from not learning to habituate to novel environments and experiences during the first 6-8 months of life. Signs of anxiety include pacing, panting, vocalizing, shaking, drooling and being hypervigilant. A lowered body posture, ears back, tail tucked and looking away from the perceived threat can also be seen. A phobia is a fearful response to a specific stimulus such as noise, an object or place.

Treatment must include limiting exposure to situations that create fear and anxiety, especially in the early part of treatment, since repeatedly triggering anxiety will make the problem worse. Avoid comforting your dog when anxious because this rewards the behavior.

Often anti-anxiety medications are needed to reduce anxiety so that behavioral modification can be effective. Medication does not replace behavioral modification and should not be used alone except when used for short duration anxiety inducing events such as fireworks, storms, car travel and family (children) visits. For dogs that are anxious during most of the day a maintenance medication is used alone or in combination with a rapid, short-acting medication. This medication is used for several months after the anxiety is controlled. In some cases the medication may be needed lifelong.

Treatment begins with “nothing-in-life-is-free” training where the dog is required to earn all things. This is not a punishment but rather establishes a comforting predictive manner of obtaining things from family members. Along with this, the dog learns to focus on family members, sit and settle and be rewarded for being relaxed and taking a breath. Once this is learned in a quiet and calm home environment, the dog can be gradually introduced to anxiety-provoking stimuli. This desensitization can be coupled with counter conditioning so that the dog associates an unpleasant stimulus with a positive reward. For example, a dog that becomes anxious when seeing another dog when being walked, is told to sit and focus on their person as soon as another dog is spotted at a distance before becoming too anxious. A food reward is given if the dog settles and relaxes and then is turned and walked away from the approaching dog. Next time one allows the distance between to become shorter but before heightened anxiety occurs. After sitting and focusing on their person a treat is given and then turn and walk away. This is repeated while gradually shortening the distance to the approaching dog. Eventually the dog should learn to sit, focus and relax while another dog passes on the other side of the street.

Similar to counter conditioning is response substitution where an undesirable response is replaced with desirable one. For example, a dog barking and lunging on a leash is shown a tennis ball to focus on or a dog hearing scary noise is given a treat. This is not rewarding the dog for an undesirable behavior but rather learning a different response than being anxious.

Improvement in anxiety will generally be slow and may remain for life. It’s important to be aware of what the dog is able to experience and work within those parameters. Attempting to repeatedly make the dog experience situations that cause overwhelming anxiety may harm long-term improvement and lead to a worsening of symptoms or even aggression. Encounters where the intensity of the anxiety-provoking stimulus is controlled and if needed, calming medications, allow the dog to cope and learn a different response than being anxious.

Living With A Senior Pet

Wed, 02 Oct 2019 00:00:00 GMT

As pets grow older, their personalities mature and deepen. Unfortunately, they also develop health problems associated with older age. The following are problems we commonly see in older pets and methods to manage them.
Loss of Senses Diminished vision can get in the way of catching treats or toys, hesitating at stairs or walking into traffic. The most common problem is lenticular or nuclear sclerosis which is a hardening of the lens. It is often mistaken for cataracts and other than affecting depth perception since dogs don’t have fine focal vision no treatment is indicated. Other problems can lead to difficulty seeing in the dark. Night lights at stairs and next to food and water can help. Blind dogs can be helped with a haloz (muffinshalo.com) to keep from bumping into things and bells on collars of other animals in the house can prevent being bumped into by them.
Hearing loss typically starts during the last third of a breed’s typical lifespan. Mid to high frequencies are affected first. Older pets “hear” the food bowl because they can still smell it. The sense of smell becomes more important as hearing and vision are lost. Scent markers such as Tracer2(innovetpet.com) can be used to guide pets with vision loss around furniture and to food and water.
Skin Conditions Older dogs tend to more easily develop skin infections that can be mild resulting in scaly skin and foul odor at the skin. Often medicated shampoos and topical medications can control this. Dull and lusterless hair coats can benefit from brushing and addition of a fatty-acid supplement.
Mobility & Joint Movement Mobility problems are best addressed early before pain and/or muscle atrophy becomes chronic. Addressing joint pain early provides for continued joint motion which keeps joints comfortable and maintains muscle tone and diminishes atrophy . Medical treatment and low-impact exercise prevent worsening of the pain and stiffness. Purposeful walks, starting with 5-10 minutes twice daily can produce surprising results. A “purposeful” walk is one that focuses on consistently walking rather than allowing sniffing for most of the walk time. Walks up and down hills will help to strengthen muscles with relatively low-impact activity. For those dogs with limited mobility, using a wagon to travel to a park and then getting out on the grass for wandering around and smell time gives them an enjoyable outing with mental stimulation.
For dogs with mobility problems, tile or wood floors can become unmanageable. Using carpet door mats on areas frequently traveled, booties with a non-slip surface, glue on paw pads and rubber toe nail rings can all help. Booties need to be removed when your dog is inactive to prevent moisture from causing skin irritation.
Weight Management Extra body weight can quickly become a problem with food treats and diminished exercise. You should be able to feel the ribs when running your fingers down the side of the chest and there should be an obvious waist when looking down from above or from the side. Obesity is linked to multiple diseases and can be extremely debilitating in pets with chronic arthritis and is the primary predisposing factor in development of diabetes in cats. Begging is a common problem that doesn’t require that a food treat be given. Frequently what is wanted by your pet is to be recognized as an important family member. Petting, playing with your pet or if you must give food then giving them some of their usual food by hand is a “treat”. Foods sold as treats are generally very high in calories and so if treats must be given use treats that are just a couple of calories. Dogs find carrots and apples satisfying.
Sleep Some older dogs become restless at night and will pace and pant, keeping everyone awake. There are many reasons an older dog may have difficulty sleeping including both medical and behavior related reasons. Discomfort, anxiety and cognitive problems are most common. If the pet is comfortable then anti-anxiety and/or sedative medications are often needed. Besides allowing everyone to have a good night’s sleep it may also allow dogs to be more alert during the day.
Treats & Games Mental stimulation improves the older pet’s quality of life. When walks outside are not possible, hide and seek is a great game, especially if there is a food reward for finding their person. And for those pets that like treats, the use of food puzzles (aikiou.com) and putting food in a Kong toy is mentally stimulating.
Our pets are remarkable in their acceptance and accommodation of their disabilities as they age. Recent improvements in our ability to recognize and manage pain, anxiety and disabilities can be life changing during their golden years.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

Cat Scratching Behavior

Thu, 14 Feb 2019 03:29:43 GMT

Kenton Taylor, D.V.M.

Recently we have been receiving an increased number of phone calls asking if we declaw cats.

Declawing is an ethically controversial procedure that entails amputation of the third “toe bone.” In

comparison to a human it is the same as cutting off the finger at the last joint. There are effective

alternatives.

Scratching is a normal cat behavior. It allows them to groom the claws, leave scent markers and

stretch their bodies. Providing numerous suitable surfaces will discourage them from using furniture,

drapes, walls or doors. Cats that go outdoors may do all their scratching outside. For cats mostly

indoors or indoors only, several scratchers of different textures and styles should be available.

Scratchers should include vertical types that extend above the cat’s stretched out height as well as

slanted and horizontal options. Some cats prefer sisal or loose carpet while others like trays filled

with cardboard on end or even others prefer logs or wood planks. Rubbing tuna oil on the surface or

for some, cat nip sprinkled on a horizontal surface can increase its attractiveness. Food rewards can

also be given when the cat is seen using the scratcher. As long as it doesn’t cause your cat to become

anxious you can gently rub its paws on the scratcher and then give a food reward.

The placement of the scratchers is very important also. Placing near a sleeping area since cats stretch

or scratch after waking up or near an object that you don’t want scratched like the corner of the sofa

can be effective. Prominent areas such as just inside a doorway to a room or in rooms with frequent

activity are best. While I’ve always had 3 – 4 cats in my house, I’ve never had a scratching problem

but there are a half dozen scratchers of various types throughout.

Besides making it as desirable as possible to use the scratchers you should make it undesirable to use

furniture and other items when bringing home a new cat, re-training an existing cat or adding a new

piece of furniture. You can place double-sided cellophane tape on the corners and tops to discourage

scratching. On rugs and carpeting you can spray or rub on citronella scent to repel cats from those

areas. Tweed type upholstery can be irresistable and is best avoided or re-covered. Use the old fabric

to staple onto scratchers to encourage their use. For sofas you can take a section of a vinyl carpet

protector and turn it upside down so the knub (which are normally used to keep it from sliding around

on the carpet) are facing up. If the cat continues to use one to two pieces of furniture it may be

necessary if possible to isolate the furniture from the cat at least when not home.

Since scratching on furniture may not be completely eliminated there are methods to reduce the

damage done. Regular claw trimming can be done with human nail trimmers in a “side-ways” fashion

so that the claw is not split. If possible start claw trimming as kittens and if your cat doesn’t like claw

trimming then start slow. Trim claws in a calm environment with breaks as needed and food treats.

If you don’t want to trim claws, gluing plastic nail caps over the claws is an option but this process

needs to be done every 4-6 weeks.

Physical punishment for inappropriate scratching should be avoided as it can cause fear or aggression

towards people in the household and at best the cat will only learn not to scratch while people are

around. Indirect punishment only works if people are out of sight so that the cat learns that

inappropriate scratching is unpleasant even if people are not present. Motion detectors on compressed

air spray cans (Ssscat®) or that activate a loud noise (Amtek Scraminal®) can keep cats off tables,

counter tops and sofas. Booby traps such as a door alarm on a drape and a stack of plastic cups set to

topple when a cat scratches can be effective deterrents.

Declawing or more appropriately termed partial digital amputation is an unnecessary surgery. It is

banned in more than 20 countries and bans are starting to take effect in many areas of the United

States. As we learn to understand the cat’s behavior and allow it to express itself as it would naturally

this drastic solution becomes unnecessary.

UPDATE ON CANINE INFLUENZA

Mon, 22 Jan 2018 00:00:00 GMT

There is currently a confirmed local outbreak of H3N2 canine influenza. Reports of influenza cases began around 01/10 and significantly increased in number 01/15. Cases have been reported primarily from San Jose, Campbell and Sunnyvale.

The H3N2 strain of influenza Type A was first seen in the U.S. in Chicago in 2015. The virus is highly contagious and dogs can have mild symptoms that may be mistaken as so called “kennel cough” or more severe symptoms resulting in fever and pneumonia.

Influenza virus doesn’t survive in the environment for very long but does spread easily between individuals. Transmission generally requires contact with an infected dog but be aware that an infected dog is usually contagious before showing any symptoms of illness. Infected dogs can remain contagious for up to 3 weeks.

Vaccination is recommended for dogs having exposure to other dogs as can occur during boarding, grooming, doggie daycare, training classes and visiting dog parks. Vaccination against both the H3N2 and H3N8 strains with a bivalent vaccine is recommended. The initial vaccination is followed by a booster 3 weeks later.

Since there is now an outbreak of influenza in this area, any dog who is coughing and acting sick should be considered suspect. Besides a cough, symptoms can include lethargy, decreased appetite, sneezing and eye or nasal discharge and with pneumonia, increased breathing rate and effort can be seen. Testing and treatment will vary depending upon likely date of exposure and the duration and severity of symptoms. If your dog has contact with other dogs then best not to wait but rather vaccinate now.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

OSTEOARTHRITIS IN DOGS

Thu, 14 Dec 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Inflammation within the joints, osteoarthritis , is common in dogs with about 20% suffering the effects. It is a slowly evolving disease with development of joint pain, stiffness and limitation of motion. The most common cause is abnormal stresses on normal cartilage. Even tiny imperfections in the joints can lead to mechanical breakdowns and the resultant inflammation. The progression of the disease can be affected by body weight, amount of exercise and genetic influences.

The first symptom is loss of normal performance followed by stiffness after rest that usually lasts only a few minutes. Next, quality of life is affected – decreased exercise tolerance, not getting in or out of the car without help and decreased activity. These problems are frequently blamed on the pet’s increasing age. Progressive disease leads to lameness of a sudden or slow development. In some dogs there may be behavioral effects of joint discomfort including nervousness, aggression, depression and loss of appetite.

There is no cure for osteoarthrosis but rather the progressive condition is “managed.” In dogs the therapy goals are influenced by the severity of the symptoms, the intended activity, age and size and any concurrent disease or drug therapy that may interfere with the use of anti-inflammatory drugs.

The most important treatment in overweight pets is weight loss. Obese dogs can become free of symptoms once they have achieved ideal body weight or be managed with lower dosages of pain relieving and anti-inflammatory medications.

Medical therapy will vary depending on the severity and location of the osteoarthritis. With medical therapy it is most effective as multi-modal treatment (2 or more different types) and best started prior to development of chronic pain. Once chronic pain is established medical therapy is generally not as effective. Similarly pharmaceuticals should be given regularly and not “as needed” after the pain worsens.

In most patients unless the osteoarthritis is mild the use of a non-steroid anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) is indicated. These drugs while not addressing the underlying cause do control pain and inflammation allowing improved mobility. The most commonly used are referred to as COX enzyme inhibitors. COX enzymes are used by the body to produce prostaglandins. The “bad” prostaglandins cause inflammation and the “good” prostaglandins protect the stomach. This is in part why some patients can have stomach upset with the COX enzyme inhibiting non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs. A newer drug called grapiprant (Galliprant®) does not inhibit the COX enzymes but works by blocking the inflammation and pain producing prostaglandin receptor. For those who have digestive issues with other non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs they generally do well with grapiprant.

A pain relieving drug, Gabapentin, is generally very effective combined with an NSAID or sometimes used alone in mild cases. It is particularly helpful in dealing with chronic or neuropathic pain. It is generally started at a low dose and the dosage gradually increased to avoid the common side effect of sedation. It may not be helpful in patients until a high dosage is reached. The medication is safe for long-term use.

Opiates particularly Tramadol can provide pain relief and are generally well tolerated. There appears to be individual variation in responsiveness to these medications and with chronic pain full effect may not be seen until after 2 weeks. Due to potential changes in alertness and behavior, Tramadol may not be good for working or service dogs, and check with your veterinarian before using with anti-anxiety medications.

Adequan® is an injectable glycosaminoglcin which is a major component of joint cartilage. The specific mechanism of action in dog joints is unknown. It is perhaps best used when the osteoarthrosis is at an early stage and when used alone at this time many clients report significant improvement in mobility.

In regards to glucosamine, chondroitin sulfate and green lipped mussel, there are no studies to document effectiveness other than those conducted by the manufacturers. Unlike an injection of Adequan®, since these products are given orally they may be degraded to other compounds by the stomach and digestive enzymes prior to absorption. Since these products are not regulated as pharmaceuticals the actual quality of these products varies widely. Cosequin® manufactured by Nutramax Labs is a reputable product.

For those patients that are not responsive to previously reviewed medications the injection into the joint(s) of hyaluronic acid or corticosteroids or the use of PRP (platelet rich plasma) is indicated. Hyaluronic acid is a form of viscosupplementation which restores the physical properties of the joint fluid to aid in the lubrication of the joint, decrease inflammation and degradation, and help in cartilage repair. Used alone it is useful for mild to moderate osteoarthritis but in severe cases it is used with corticosteroids or PRP. Corticosteroid injections into the affected joint(s) reduce inflammation and improve comfort with 2 injections separated by 3 weeks lasting weeks to months. PRP reportedly has an anti-inflammatory and analgesic effect; has cartilage protective effects and improves the viscoelastic properties of joint fluid. For most patients joint injections require sedation.

Fish oil (omega-3 fatty acids) does have documented effectiveness and generally supplemented at 600mg per day.

Besides medications and supplements there are lifestyle changes that can be beneficial. Regular moderate exercise including leash walking and swimming reduces inflammation and maintains good muscle strength to stabilize joints (“motion is the lotion”). Passive range of motion exercises; massage and hydrotherapy with an underwater treadmill or deep water therapy are all valuable. A warm, well padded, e.g. orthopedic foam bed, area to sleep is also important

For most dogs symptoms associated with osteoarthrosis can be relieved with weight loss if needed, exercise in moderation and pharmaceuticals with fish oil supplementation. Your veterinarian can help with catching early signs of this disease and guiding you with preventative treatment and therapies to delay progression of arthritis and if needed medications to relieve the debilitating pain associated with osteoarthritis.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

HOLIDAY PET HAZARDS

Thu, 14 Dec 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Holiday time presents some situations which can be hazardous to your pet’s health. A little planning and taking extra precautions will keep the holidays a happy time for everyone.

Holiday food favorites can be dangerous for dogs watch out for “counter surfing” with food left on counters and serving areas. Fats, gravies and poultry skin can lead to gastrointestinal upset or worse pancreatitis. This inflammatory condition of the pancreas often requires hospitalized care and can be fatal. Keep trash where your pet cannot get to it. Food scraps and packaging can be delectable for your pet.

Alcoholic drinks especially eggnog is tempting along with rum cake. And unbaked bread dough undergoes fermentation in the stomach to produce ethanol and stomach distension.

If you have to share food, give canned pumpkin or raw or cooked sweet potato, carrots or green beans without added oils. Grapes, raisins and currants are toxic for some dogs. Be careful with peanut butter as it is high in fat and some peanut butters now have a natural sweetener called Xylitol added. Xylitol causes a dog’s blood sugar to become low and possibly liver failure. Only 2 ounces of Xylitol containing peanut spread can be toxic for a 25 pound dog. Xylitol is also used in sugar-free gum, baked goods and candies often labeled as “sweetened naturally” or “naturally sweetened.”

It doesn’t take much for a climbing cat or excited dog to knock the Christmas tree over, so make sure it is secured. A tight fitting tree skirt can prevent your pet from drinking the tree’s water. Foil around the base can discourage cats. Double-sided cellophane tape or citronella spray at the tree base will discourage cats from climbing. Avoid ornaments made from food such as salt/dough ornaments and popcorn strings. Watch for and remove any broken ornaments. Be careful with holiday lights as they are usually not insulated well and so are easily chewed through. Burn marks at the lips or tongue or respiratory distress are signs of electrocution. Tinsel and curling ribbon should be avoided completely especially with cats.

Poinsettia is only mildly toxic; holly, mistletoe, and Amaryllis more so with more severe stomach upset. Lilies are particularly worrisome in cats with eating only one or two leaves or flower petals causing kidney failure.

Potpourri liquid or scented oils simmered in a pot are particularly attractive to cats and are poisonous due to the essential oils and cationic detergents they contain.

While your medications are safely stored away, house guests may leave theirs in plastic bags in open suitcases. More common now is marijuana in plastic bags. If there is marijuana in the house, your dog will find it. No drug sniffing training needed here.

Lastly, one that you may be unfamiliar with is snow globes. They can contain ethylene glycol (antifreeze). If you drop and break one, the liquid could be quickly licked up because it tastes sweet. Ethylene glycol ingestion can cause kidney failure. Proceed immediately to your veterinarian if this occurs.

For some cats and dogs, the bustle of the holiday season with visitors and increased household activity can be stressful. Providing a comfortable, quiet place to retreat to can help and also prevent unnoticed escapes out the door. If your pet is particularly upset by houseguests, then your veterinarian can help with possible solutions.

If you suspect that your pet has been exposed to a “holiday hazard”, call your local veterinarian immediately or call Pet Poison Helpline at 855-213-6680 or ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 (fee for both). Early treatment can prevent a serious or fatal condition.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

SUPERFICIAL SHELL ROT ON TURTLE

Wed, 08 Nov 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Superficial shell abscesses and erosions, or shell rot as it is often called, is a common problem in aquatic chelonians. The keratin scutes that cover the bony shell develop defects or develop dark, pale or pink discolorations. The problem usually occurs as a result of infrequent water changes, lack of a filtration system, filtration system not cleaned and/or too low an environmental temperature.

Besides correction of the husbandry, treatment begins with the removal of any loose scute material along with underlying dead tissue. The blunt end of a scalpel blade works well. If, when scraping, the underlying tissue is bleeding, pieces of bone are becoming loose, cheesy material is present or the turtle is painful then the shell abscess is likely deep and further treatment should be done under sedation by a veterinarian. After complete removal of loose and dead tissue we have had excellent results with a product called Tricide-Neo. It is available from many sources including www.koiacres.com . After re-constituting the powder, sponge onto the affected areas and leave moist for 15-20 minutes. Use four times daily for two weeks and then twice daily until lesions are completely healed. You can use the solution for one week before changing to new solution. The shell is healed when it is free of discharge and odor, and is “smooth” (irregular scars may remain for life). I don’t recommend dry docking which can result in decreased food and water intake. Antibiotics given as injections or orally should be reserved for deep shell abscesses and will not correct the problem without removing the loose and dead tissue. Frequent complete water changes 2-3 times per week for a 10 gallon tank and once weekly for a 50 gallon is best. Scrub tank and filter with 1 part bleach to 5 parts water and then rinse well. Feeding in a separate container will help keep the tank clean also. Water temperature and basking sites need to be at appropriate temperatures.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

LEMON MERINGUE & CHOCOLATE BANANA CREAM - ADOPTED 12-7-2017

Tue, 07 Nov 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Miramonte Veterinary Hospital has been working with various rescue organizations to help kittens/cats and the occasional rat or rabbit find their permanent home. We do not receive any support or funding but do this as our contribution to the community.

Kittens ready to go to their new home:

Lemon Meringue: ~ 8 weeks old, male, castrated
Chocolate Banana Cream: ~ 8 weeks old, female, spayed

Kenton Taylor, DVM

COCONUT CREAM & CHOCOLATE MOUSSE - ADOPTED!!

Tue, 07 Nov 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Kittens ready to go to their new home:

Coconut Cream: ~ 8 weeks old, male, castrated
Chocolate Mousse: ~ 8 weeks old, male, spayed

Kenton Taylor, DVM

VANILLA BEAN - ADOPTED 12-4-2017

Tue, 07 Nov 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Vanilla Bean is a female rat who has been spayed. She loves to sit on your lap. She is ready to be yours!

Kenton Taylor, DVM

COCONUT CREAM & CHOCOLATE MOUSSE - ADOPTED!!

Tue, 07 Nov 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Kittens ready to go to their new home:

Coconut Cream: ~ 8 weeks old, male, castrated
Chocolate Mousse: ~ 8 weeks old, male, spayed

Kenton Taylor, DVM

Stress Free & Safe Veterinary Visits for your Pet

Wed, 25 Oct 2017 17:23:09 GMT

Kenton Taylor, DVM

Trips to the veterinarian can be stressful for pets and their owners. For some dogs and cats, car travel can result in motion sickness further adding to their distress. Planning and preparation prior to travel can make the trip less stressful for all.

Cats and small dogs should be transported in a carrier. Ideally the carrier should have a front and top opening with easy removal of the top portion. Cats prefer sturdy carriers as they offer better support. Cats are most comfortable with the familiar and should be given time to get used to being in the carrier before travel such as leaving the carrier out for the cat to regularly sleep in it. Put the carrier in a preferred resting area with the top off if needed at first. Placing clothing, eg. fleece jacket or throw with your scent in the carrier and placing toys, food or treats in or around the carrier is helpful. Transport cats in separate carriers. Of course there are times when you may need to go to the veterinarian right away and your cat is not yet accustomed to the carrier. Start by putting the carrier in a small room without hiding places and then bring the cat in and shut the door. If the carrier has a top opening then gently cradle your cat and lower it in. Otherwise, remove the top half and after placing the cat in the carrier calmly replace the top. Having the cat’s usual bedding or clothing with your scent can help calm the cat.

If your cat is anxious or squirms when picked up making them difficult to hold then try placing the opening of a pillow case over them and then gently roll them into the pillow case and twist the opening closed. Put the pillow case with the cat in it gently into the carrier. For some cats being “hidden” in the pillow case for the trip is calming. Some cats do best with the carrier covered and others prefer to look out.

During the trip the safest place for a carrier is behind the passenger seat or less desirably strapped in with a seat belt. Pets loose in the car can be a danger for them and hazardous for your driving. Dogs have jumped out of car windows at busy intersections and hit the seat or dashboard when thrown forward by a sudden stop. Small pets can wander near the foot pedals interfering with needed braking. Medium to large dogs should be fitted with a harness and seat belt. The Center for Pet Safety has information on pet restraint devices.

For some pets just bringing them hungry and having their favorite treats at the visit makes for a great experience. For others the anxiety level is overwhelming and medications prior to travel can help. Sedative, anti-anxiety or pain relieving medications can be used to reduce the stress of the car ride and reduce anxiety upon arrival at the veterinary hospital. Pain can lead to anxiety and anxiety can amplify the pain experience. Medications are best tried first at home before the day needed as some patients can become more excited or irritable, necessitating a different medication or need a higher dose to produce the desired effect. If motion sickness medications are needed they should be given 1 hour prior to travel.

In multi-cat, multi-dog households or households with children a delayed re-introduction is recommended to avoid aggressive behavior. If any anesthetics or sedatives were given then avoid re-introduction until there has been a complete recovery. For dogs taking them all for a short walk together after arriving home is helpful. With cats leave the returning cat in the carrier for a few minutes to see how all the cats react. The unfamiliar smell of the veterinary hospital on the returning cat can cause it to be mistaken for a stranger. If they are anxious then keep the cat in the carrier and let it loose in a separate room by itself for a day. Otherwise if everyone is calm then let the returning cat out of the carrier. Sometimes taking all the cats to the veterinarian at the same time helps because then all will have the scent of the veterinary hospital.

While veterinary visits are not always as enjoyable as playing fetch or lying in the sun, they don’t need to be stressful.

Dr. Taylor is a Fear Free Certified Professional. Additional information to help your pet can be found at Fear Free or contacting a Fear Free Certified Professional.

ALLERGIES IN DOGS & CATS

Sat, 26 Aug 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Few problems can be as frustrating for pet owners (and veterinarians) to deal with as allergies. For dogs and cats the itchy feeling can cause severe irritation and self-mutilation. Treating allergies can be as simple as an effective flea control. However, in severe cases obtaining complete control of allergies can be elusive and necessitate multiple treatments. It is almost always a lifelong problem and can be expensive to control.

It is felt that if a dog or cat has an allergy to one thing then to some degree they are allergic to many things. The primary causes for allergies are fleas, environmental and food.

Flea allergies are a reaction to flea saliva.
Environmental allergies include dust mites, grasses, weeds and trees.
Food allergies can be due to many different dietary ingredients.

Sorting out which allergy or combination of causes is responsible for a pet’s itchy feeling is best done in a strict, systematic approach. The location of biting, chewing, rubbing, etc. can be helpful as well as the breed, age and if it is a seasonal problem. The possibility of mites cannot be overlooked and at least a cursory evaluation for mites needs to be done first. Bacterial and malassezial (a yeast) infections can mimic allergies and are a frequent complication of the biting and chewing associated with allergies. These infections need to be controlled and kept under control when dealing with allergies.

Environmental allergies (Atopy) and food allergy symptoms are similar and distinguishing between the two can be difficult. In dogs both can cause rubbing or scratching at the face, chewing the paws and recurrent ear infections. While food allergies generally start at less than 1 year of age or older than 5 years, Atopy generally starts between 6 to 3 years of age. Atopy can be seasonal at least at first while food allergy symptoms are usually year round. In cats Atopy and food allergies are much less common than flea allergy and occur with equal frequency and without an unique pattern.

Corticosteroids generally control Atopy but long-term use is associated with undesirable side effects. Newer immune system modulating drugs such as Apoquel® (oclacitinib) and Atopica® (cyclosporine) can also be effective with Apoquel generally effective in reducing the itch resulting from Atopy and/or food allergy. Both medications can also have long-term side-effects which need to be monitored for. For Atopic dogs an injectable monoclonal antibody (Cytopoint ™) that blocks the protein Interleukin-3/ that results in the itch is highly effective and safe. Long-term therapy is best done with multiple therapies including immunotherapy based on blood or skin allergy testing, antimicrobial therapy with shampoos and other topical products and skin barrier therapy with topical products and essential fatty acid supplementation.

Food allergies are treated by avoiding the offending food allergens. While beef, poultry, chicken and wheat are commonly implicated, the adverse reaction can be to any food or food additive. There is no accurate blood test. To make a definitive diagnosis, one must feed a dietary trial for 3 months and if improvement is seen, then feed the former diet to see an adverse response. While a home-prepared diet is best, prescription veterinary diets are easier but no single one will work all the time. Usually improvement will be seen in 4-5 weeks but if no improvement is seen in 12 weeks, then try another. 100% compliance is essential and this means no treats, table food and flavored medications. All skin infections need to also be eliminated by the end of the trial, as a common complication with any allergy is skin infections.

Allergies are a lifelong problem and tend not to just go away. When dealing with allergies a systematic and disciplined approach is key. Trying a little of this or that generally is ineffective and leaves one frustrated and having to start all over again. Patience is needed. While “flare ups” will likely occur, allergies can be controlled by a systematic approach and close monitoring by your veterinarian.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

HEAT STROKE IN DOGS

Wed, 26 Jul 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Heatstroke occurs when the body is generating more heat that it can get rid of. Short-nosed breeds of dogs, obese dogs, older dogs and those with upper airway or heart disease have more difficulty regulating body temperature. Nervous and excitable dogs along with those being excessively exercised are also at risk. Signs of heat stroke may begin with excessive panting and appearing distressed and becoming restless. Large amounts of saliva may come out of the mouth and/or nose. Weakness and difficulty in standing may then occur and you may notice gums looking bright red or purple/blue.

If you suspect heatstroke then move to a shaded/cool area and soak with cool water. Put ice packs under the neck and in groin if available. Do not use wet towels as that keeps heat in and alcohol on the pads is not effective alone.

Do not immerse in ice water or force your dog to drink. Allow to drink cool water if he or she wants to. Heat stroke is a disease that affects the entire body and simply lowering the body temperature may not address severe complications. A dog with heat stroke should be seen immediately by a veterinarian. Delayed admission to a veterinary hospital is a major risk factor for death.

To prevent heat stroke from happening do not keep dogs outside without shade. A wading pool can help. There is no answer to whether to clip or not to clip a long-haired dog. If you do clip, then no closer than 1-2 cm, as any shorter can lead to sunburn. Adding low sodium chicken broth to the water will increase intake. For those ball-playing dogs it is important not to let them keep the ball in their mouth after playing since it will prevent effective panting. Be careful with older dogs lying in a sunny window as they may not be able to realize they are becoming overheated. And of course careful with leaving your dog in a car even on cool days. A study by Stanford University Medical Center found that the temperature inside a vehicle increases on average 40 degrees Fahrenheit within 1 hour regardless of outside temperature.

Again, it is important to realize that decreasing the body temperature alone may not prevent damage to the kidneys, intestines, liver, brain and blood clotting problems that can occur with heat stroke. Start cooling your dog immediately if the veterinarian is more than a few minutes away but don’t delay getting to a veterinary hospital.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

HOME DENTAL CARE FOR DOGS

Fri, 12 May 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Home oral hygiene can make a tremendous difference in your dog’s comfort and health. There are several home care oral hygiene options from which to choose, but keep in mind that anything you can do to help prevent plaque and tartar accumulation will pay big dividends. What really matters is whether or not home oral hygiene will be provided over the long haul – effort applied only for a short period or only occasionally will be of no long-term benefit.

Listed below are some commonly used options for home oral hygiene that have been proven to be of benefit for dogs. Combining several methods will achieve the best results. All methods of home oral hygiene share the goal of preventing or controlling periodontal disease by minimizing plaque (bacterial film) accumulation, and preventing the mineralization of the plaque to form calculus (“tartar”).

BRUSHING and TOOTH-PASTES: Brushing your dog’s teeth is the single most effective means to maintain oral health between professional dental examinations. This makes sense because the bacterial film known as “plaque” is the cause of periodontal disease. This film is easily disrupted by the simple mechanical effect of brushing the teeth. Frequent (ideally daily) brushing is recommended to maintain optimal dental health. Almost all dogs will eventually accept brushing. The key to success is to be patient and gradual in your approach, brushing mainly the outside of the “cheek teeth” located under the upper lip. A dog that resists brushing frequently may have painful areas in the mouth that need to be addressed.

We recommend a pet-specific dentrifrice for dogs. These products are safe for dogs and come in flavors that dogs accept, such as poultry, beef and vanilla. Avoid human toothpastes as they often contain abrasives and high-foaming detergents that should not be swallowed or inhaled by dogs.

Toothbrushes designed for dogs are soft and angled to assist in brushing the back teeth. Some dogs prefer finger brushes. A variety of “dental wipes” containing different products are available. The single-use wipes are rubbed on the outside of the teeth to remove plaque.

CHLORHEXIDINE ORAL RINSE and GEL: Chlorhexidine is the most effective anti-plaque antiseptic. Chlorhexidine binds to the oral tissues and tooth surfaces, and is gradually released into the oral cavity. It is safe for pets and rarely causes problems, though it does have a bitter taste if palatability enhancers suitable for dogs are not included. Some dogs may object to the taste of products containing chlorhexidine while others accept it with no difficulty. The rinse is applied by squirting a small amount inside the cheek on each side of the mouth. The gel is applied by smearing it onto the teeth. The tongue and lips will spread the rinse or gel around the mouth.

DIETS and CHEWS: Several “dental diets” have been shown to be of benefit in decreasing dental disease. Some employ a specific kibble design and others include a chemical anti-tartar poly-phosphate ingredient.

Rawhide products and chew treats can be helpful if chewed daily, and some rawhide chews and biscuits contain an anti-tartar ingredient. Palatability is important – chewing every day is the ideal.

We do not recommend cow hooves, dried natural bones or hard nylon products because they are too hard. They can break teeth and swallowing a large piece can result in an intestinal obstruction.

Chew toys are only of benefit if they are played with frequently and over the long haul – you can increase the dog’s willingness to chew by smearing palatable peanut butter or soft cheese on the product.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

WHAT IS EFFECTIVE DENTAL CLEANING FOR YOUR DOG OR CAT?

Fri, 12 May 2017 00:00:00 GMT

Well-meaning pet owners can be quite surprised when their pet requires multiple tooth extractions when they have regularly had non-professional dental scaling done. The primary reason is that removal of dental tartar on the visible surfaces of the teeth is not enough. The effect is purely cosmetic. Tartar under the gum line within the gingival pocket can only be removed under anesthesia and left on the teeth will contribute to periodontal disease. Periodontal disease starts with inflammation of the gums (gingivitis) and can lead to periodontitis which is loss of the tooth supporting tissues. Most small breed dogs have periodontal disease by 3 years of age. Untreated dental disease especially where extractions are needed is painful for your pet. Many times pet owners have commented on how much more active and engaging their pet is after dental treatment.

Effective dental cleaning is cleaning both sides of the tooth and again most importantly under the gum line with an ultrasonic scaler. Additional hand scaling especially of any exposed tooth root is done as needed. Periodontal pockets (space between the gum & bone and the tooth) are probed and measured. Teeth are then polished with paste as a smooth surface discourages plaque formation. The area under the gums is then irrigated to remove debris & paste. Deep pockets can be filled with an antibiotic gel to slow periodontal disease and sealants can be applied to the surface also to discourage plaque formation.

Dental x-rays (radiographs) are an essential step for most dental cleanings. Since introducing dental radiography to our practice over 19 years ago, I have been consistently surprised by the dental problems seen on radiographs that were not evident on dental examination. Following dental cleaning, home care is important and can include brushing, antiseptic rinses, applying sealants, dental diets, dental chews and antiseptics added to the drinking water.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

CHOOSING A FAMILY PET

Tue, 07 Mar 2017 00:00:00 GMT

A pet can bring tremendous joy to a family. Whether its being entertained by their charming antics or the calming effects of stroking their bodies, they de-stress our lives. While pet ownership is a responsibility, a family pet should not be a burden. Careful consideration needs to be given to the pet’s expected longevity, demands for daily care and attention, and expectations of interactions with small children and other pets in the household.

Dogs and parrots tend to demand the most attention and do best when regular attention is provided. They also require at least some basic training. For dogs, coming when called and walking on a leash (owner walking dog and not dog walking owner) provides for a more enjoyable relationship. Additional training is at each person’s discretion. Since my dogs have always been unruly, my “free spirit” approach is not appreciated by some. Be prepared for scornful glares if yours is not “well behaved.” Parrots need to be trained to stand on the hand and step up onto the hand when outside of their enclosure to best engage with their owners. Most parrots will occasionally bite and owners will need to be tolerant of this. Choose one with a small beak if this is a concern.

Cats in general do fine without a daily routine and get by if a couple of days pass without attention. With that said, cat personalities and preferences for human interaction vary considerably. While some cats like to be held or sit on laps most do not. Some prefer to be appreciated from a distance. Most do what they feel like irrespective of what you want. While an occasional cat will “act like a dog” if cuddly and responding with attention on your terms is desired than a cat may not be a fit for you.

Children will always chase the kitty, tease the dog and want to pick up and hug their pets. While the kitty can run and hide, a dog needs to be tolerant of a child’s handling. Most Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers respond with their tail wagging to any attention even if their skin is being grabbed or twisted. On the other hand, a herding breed or terrier or most small breeds will not tolerate this. Choosing the appropriate breed for the household is critical. Some dogs do best in a household with older children and adults where human behaviors are better controlled.

If a dog or cat is not possible, a rat makes a great pet. They are intelligent and engaging. You want to get a young rat so that it develops a desire to be handled. Rats handled from a young age are generally more tolerant of being carried about by children than rabbits and guinea pigs.

Reptiles vary greatly in terms of pet qualities and generally require a big commitment of time and effort to provide appropriate care and habitat. Some are highly intelligent. Bearded Dragons and Tortoises can develop strong bonds and attachment to their owners.

Once you have decided on a pet, it is a good idea to take it to the veterinarian for an examination before getting attached. Having a thorough examination and review of care, diet and behavior can prepare you for your new responsibility and avoid surprises and frustration. Remember that as pets age, they often need more care and attention to their health needs. You’ll be rewarded though to find that the silly puppy or kitten aged to develop a character all of their own that you’ll remember as a once in a lifetime.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

HOLIDAY PET HAZARDS

Mon, 05 Dec 2016 00:00:00 GMT

Holiday time presents some situations which can be hazardous to your pet’s health. A little planning and taking extra precautions will keep the holidays a happy time for everyone.

Holiday food favorites can be dangerous for dogs. Fats, gravies and poultry skin can lead to gastrointestinal upset or worse pancreatitis. This inflammatory condition of the pancreas often requires hospitalized care and can be fatal.

Chocolate poisoning is a common problem with early symptoms being anxiety, agitation or vomiting. The darker the chocolate the more dangerous it is. Don’t keep wrapped boxes of chocolate under the tree – they will be opened by your dog.

If you have to share food, give canned pumpkin or raw or cooked sweet potato, carrots or green beans without added oils. Be careful with peanut butter as it is high in fat and some peanut butters now have a natural sweetener called Xylitol added. Xylitol causes a dog’s blood sugar to become so low that it can be deadly. Only 2 ounces of Xylitol containing peanut spread can be toxic for a 25 pound dog. Xylitol is also used in sugar-free gum, baked goods and candies often labeled as “sweetened naturally” or “naturally sweetened.”

It doesn’t take much for a climbing cat or excited dog to knock the Christmas tree over, so make sure it is secured. A tight fitting tree skirt can prevent drinking the tree’s water. Double-sided cellophane tape or citronella spray at the tree base will discourage cats from climbing. Be careful with holiday lights as they are usually not insulated well and so are easily chewed through. Burn marks at the lips or tongue or respiratory distress are signs of electrocution. Tinsel and curling ribbon should be avoided completely especially with cats.

Poinsettia, holly and mistletoe when chewed on, can cause drooling and an upset stomach but fortunately are not deadly.

If you suspect that your pet has been exposed to a “holiday hazard” call your local veterinarian immediately. Early treatment can prevent a serious or fatal condition.

Kenton Taylor, DVM

SENIOR DOG WELLNESS

Mon, 14 Nov 2016 00:00:00 GMT

The senior years are the last quarter of a dog’s expected lifespan. In general the smaller the dog, the longer is the expected life span. Miniature poodles would be expected to live until 15-16 years of age whereas a Golden Retriever would be expected to reach 12-13 years. So a senior miniature poodle would be 11 years and older while a senior Golden Retriever would be 9 years and older.

Early signs of illness in a senior dog can include deterioration in play, activity and response to commands. Changes in appetite including having to change diet to encourage eating or eating more slowly are indications of an illness. Drinking more water than before, urinating more frequently, coughing and vomiting or diarrhea unrelated to dietary changes also indicate a problem. Weight gain can also be a problem as dogs get older. Lumps and bumps are common and may be benign or indicative of a malignancy.

Early diagnosis allows optimum cure or management of age associated disease. Early diagnosis begins with a thorough history and examination. Your veterinarian will ask questions including previously mentioned symptoms and note any changes in weight and behavior from the last exam. Examination includes palpating, manipulating, listening to inspecting mouth, ears, chest, joints, abdomen, skin and the dreaded rectal exam. The exam maybe further extended to being trotted outside to evaluate for any lameness, aspirates taken of lumps to evaluate for malignancies, or dilation of pupils to evaluate the retina. A thorough examination takes time so be certain your schedule allows for the time needed.

Following examination your veterinarian may recommend additional testing. Most importantly a routine blood profile and urinalysis should be performed every 6 months. Every 6 months in a senior dog is equivalent to 3 human years and so a lot can change in 6 months.

Your veterinarian will also review preventative care such as nutrition, weight optimization, dental care and environmental enrichment. For older dogs it is important to continue to cognitively and socially stimulate them by walking a different route, going to different parks, getting a new toy or even a new pet.

Senior dogs have character and your bond with them is deep. Extending their life expectancy and enhancing their quality of life can occur with early prevention, recognition and management of age-related problems.